Two more Trastevere Bars
The Hole
Address- Via dei Vascellari 16
Phone- +39 06 589 4432
Website- https://www.facebook.com/lasoramarta/
Hours- Monday through Friday, 5.30 PM-2 AM, Saturday and Sunday, 12.30 PM-2 AM
Simone and Ovidiu in the forefront
When judging this bar by its ‘cover’, it appears to be the most traditional on my list. Flags hanging from the low ceiling and wooden tables in the back and illuminated liquor bottles stacked on shelves behind industrious bartenders that seem to be in continual motion. A typical ‘sports bar’ or Anglo style ‘pub’, right? Wrong. I love this bar because it looks rather uninspiring on first glance, but it has an energy, a soul, that keeps beckoning us back. For one, the ‘industrious bartenders’ are always the same, Simone and Ovidiu, smiling and full of cheeky energy, with Marta, the sympathetic owner, always close by. These three are so warm, so attentive; if you want to make this spot your ‘local’ even for a period of three days, they will be delighted to oblige. So, what looks like a generic sports bar is waiting to surprise you with personal touches all around. First, both Simone and Ovidiu are happy to create any cocktail you crave. For a while my friends liked to order an espresso martini here, and the first time took some experimentation and googling until they got it just right. Then, the hero bartenders (S and O) remembered the perfect concoction upon our next visit. They know I like a ‘cross fitter’ drink, which we always joke about (I don’t even do crossfit), but they always laugh and mix up my tequila, soda and at least three limes.
Since the COVID crisis, bars were able to increase their outside spaces, and the Hole now has some tables outside!
The other brilliant feature that I have not even mentioned about this bar is the location. It is on the quiet side of Trastevere, near Roma Sparita, one of my featured restaurants, but also Enzo al 29, Le Mani in Pasta and Da Teo, all oft recommended restaurants located in the vicinity.
In our favorite spot, outside of The Hole
Thus, The Hole, is an ideal spot for a pre or post dinner drink. Also, although the bar does have a traditional pub feel on the inside, the true joy is taking your drink and settling in on the blankets they have adorning the curb outside, just in front of the entrance. You can request a little wooden table to perch your drink upon and enjoy the ambiance of the Piazza Del Ponziani. I promise you will feel the warmth immediately upon stepping down into The ‘Hole sweet home’.
Freni e Frizioni
Address- Via del Politeama 4
Phone- +39 06 4549 7499
Website- https://www.freniefrizioni.com/en/
Hours- Monday through Sunday, 6.30 PM- 2 AM
The drink menu at Freni e Frizioni
This bar has major nostalgic power over me. I went for the first time and frequently as a study abroad student in 2007. I should point out, I returned recently, for the full experience, and it felt like I stepped into a time capsule. ‘Take me out’ by Franz Ferdinand was blaring, the bartenders were definitely all 10 years younger than me, full of energy and fist pumps, the drink list now ironically also looks ‘vintage’ (like I felt) featuring video games from the 1990s. to compliment rather complex cocktail options.
I have always opted for a simple Campari spritz here, my drink of choice. Though I did sample some of the cocktail concoctions, and they are tasty. If you want a table inside or outside, arrive a few minutes before the bar opens at 6.30 PM. It is busy, teeming with ‘young folks’ but the line moves relatively fast. There is table service, so snag one and you can order from a server or go straight up to the register. The atmosphere is fun, could be described as ‘faux dive’ in my opinion. Kitschy chandeliers, loud music; it has still maintained a pseudo indie bar vibe, and Italians and foreigners, locals and tourists frequent it. The aperitivo is excellent as well. I would say it has only improved over the years. The buffet style aperitivo (selection of appetizers) is included with your drink, and you can have as many plates as you want, although the system is probably not Greta Thunberg approved as the plastic plates are available for you to grab at will around big bowls of fresh and all vegetarian options (at least!). There are many cold pasta salad options, rice, couscous dishes all with a nice selection of veggies. Not often a common feature on aperitivo menus in Italy, but their hummus is truly delicious! Grab spongey bread on either side of the table to sop it up. This aperitivo can absolutely serve as a dinner, if you wish, and the quality is indeed very good. Often called an ‘apericena’ to denote a more abundant selection, the offerings here fit the bill.
The piazza outside of Freni e Frizioni, empty on a weekday in August before being flooded with revelers upon opening at 6.30 PM
Another attractive feature about this bar is the open area just out front. You are welcome to take your drink out and perch on the cement walls gazing up into Trasteverian apartments at your back. In front of you is the Lungotevere, the long street running alongside the great Tiber.
During my time in Rome the bar has cemented a place in the canon of Trastevere haunts. It is perched just above the Piazza Trilussa (read more here), thus a good stop on the way to another Trastevere restaurant (Zi Umberto is very nearby and Roma Sparita is just on the other side of the Viale di Trastevere, or, make it a night to experience the apericena here at Freni e Frizioni. If you are not feeling the vibe, head down the stairs (where I met my first Italian boyfriend, cue ‘Memories’ from Cats) and check out Enoteca Ferrara. Catering to a less ‘frenetic’ crowd, here they have an ample wine list and you can have a nice, sit down aperitivo. I would not recommend staying for dinner, as it is quite overpriced. For a ‘freni’ alternative, however, it is there for you.