Restaurant in Rome- Da Tonino
General Introduction to Via Del Governo Vecchio
Another expat and friend once complimented me on my ability to find quality restaurants within the ‘center’ of Rome, aka, in the most touristic places. Many expats who love good, authentic food experiences, often practice the ‘periphery’ model (not a real thing; I just made it up). By this I mean they prefer going to restaurants found primarily in neighborhoods that are ‘off the beaten track’ or ‘far from the madding crowd’. While I have included some restaurants to fit this model (Tanto Pe Magna, for example), I do indeed enjoy the challenge of finding, verifying, and recommending quality restaurants that are in the tourist dense areas of central Rome. This method is, of course, most convenient for people who want to maximize time to see the main sites of the eternal city. Da Tonino is a treasure. For one, reservations are not taken. Therefore, if you make the decision to go either spontaneous or in advance, you will be able to get a table, it is just a matter of waiting. And, I must say, I have never waited too long, even though the restaurant is quite intimate, in only one square dining space.
Interior shot of Da Tonino
Checkered tablecloths topped with butcher paper contribute to a decidedly domestic and homey feel that pervades Da Tonino. The waiters are merry, very Roman, albeit a bit brusque (not uncommon). The food is no frills but quality. period. The restaurant is located on the Via del Governo Vecchio which is a wonderful street to explore. I would recommend starting at the far end of the Piazza Navona, near the Brazilian Embassy. As you start your walk down the Via del Governo Vecchio, you will pass a relatively new English language bookstore called Otherwise .
They host readings and book clubs, and I collaborated with them to bring a ‘book fair’ to my international school. Across the street is an Italian bookshop called Altroquando, and they are owned by the same people. At Altroquando you can head downstairs to an underground bar where shared bookshop events are held. Even if there is not an event on, they have some great craft beers on tap, and it is a quiet place to escape the crowds near Piazza Navona. If you carry on down the street, you will hit Mimi e Coco, one of my recommended aperitivi spots. Further down are a number of vintage shops, fun for a browse. The Abbey Theatre is a classic Irish pub, definitely a source of nostalgia for me. If you are missing any anglophone sports while away (American football, Soccer, Rugby, even baseball or basketball), they have many screens and will usually try to accommodate, especially if you get in touch ahead of time. Further down is Pizzeria Da Baffetto, a famed Roman pizzeria that still commands a pretty decent line. It is not my favorite spot for pizza in Rome, but has certainly earned a favorable reputation. I prefer Montecarlo nearby. Further down there is another bar we used to visit because it stayed open very late called Bar l’orologia. It looks like the hours and décor have changed (more modern all around), but the charm is still intact. This is a great place for a reasonably priced afternoon espresso or spritz.
Borromini’s 1648 clocktower
The café takes its name from the often overlooked torre dell’orologio in the Piazza dell’orologio. Once in the piazza, if you look up, you can admire the clocktower (torre), created by Borromini in 1648. Down some of the side streets are some other quality restaurant options—I would recommend both Il Corallo and Da Francesco. Da Francesco has a more renown reputation, and it has become more ‘sophisticated’, that is, more of a ‘ristorante’ than ‘trattoria’ as many of the Google reviews confirm. Still, both are quality options in the area. Another longtime favorite for an aperitivo here is Bar Del Fico. Now you have made it down the Via Del Governo Vecchio to the façade of Da Tonino.
Restaurant Specifics
Address- Via del Governo Vecchio, 18-19
Phone- +39 333 587 0779
Website- No website; Here is the Tripadvisor page
Hours- Open every day for lunch and dinner, except Sunday
Price- Low-Middle Range
Reservations- No reservations possible; try to arrive early or late
Exterior view of Da Tonino
The atmosphere at Da Tonino is comfortable and casual, with waiters dashing around. The pastas are fresh and authentic here, but I will say what makes Da Tonino quite unique is the use of vegetables and legumes in the pasta dishes. I dream about the pasta alle melanzane, and this would be my first recommendation. It is essentially the pasta alla norma (a traditionally Sicilian dish) and here at Da Tonino, the melanzane is plump and rich, paired with a delicious red sauce, so similar to the Sicilian classic. The pasta e broccoli is also very tasty. So, whereas you cannot go wrong with a Roman pasta here, if you are visiting other recommended restaurants, I would opt for a choice featuring a fresh vegetable.
Recommended Dishes
Antipasto-Verdura Mista (if you are feeling the healthier vibe)
Primi- Pasta alle melanzane (you will not regret it, if you like eggplant)
Secondi-Coniglio alla Cacciatora (rabbit) or Coda alla vaccinara (Oxtail, a typical Roman secondo)
Dolci- Torta di Ricotta e Cioccolato