Regional Feature- Lago di Bracciano (Lake Bracciano)
I included two seaside ‘spots’ in Lazio, that is, Sperlonga and Santa Marinella/Santa Severa, but the region is also home to some spectacular lakes, namely, Bracciano, Martingano, Bolsena and Albano which are some of the most popular. I am partial to the Lago di Bracciano. The lake itself is vast, and although Bracciano is the name of the lake itself AND one of the principal towns, there are other cute towns dotted around the large perimeter. For example, in addition to the town of Bracciano, you can visit Anguillara and Trevignano Romano around the perimeter. To arrive, you can take the train directly to a station in the town of Bracciano, so I will make some recommendations here, but I have also really enjoyed visiting Trevignano, as I have a dear yet zany colleague who lives there. Really, no matter which town you choose, the beauty of a day trip out to the lake is precisely that, the beauty of the lake.
The town of Bracciano
Take in gorgeous views from the top when you leave the train station of Bracciano. You can admire the view and then descend on a short trail that leads you to the water’s edge; this is about a 25-minute walk through a communal garden, and it is very pleasant. Upon arriving at the shore, you should take a stroll and then have lunch with a view.
View from the top, after arriving at the Bracciano train station
Invited to join the party
Eat at Ristorante Alfredo da Persichella in Bracciano. This restaurant has a distinctly vintage feel. The waiters are jovial and fit the vintage part, and the lake views are impressive. The menu features fresh seafood, even some ‘lake food’, such as latterini fritti (little fried lake fish). This is a popular spot for large family reunions and lunches. In fact, when I ate here on a Bracciano day trip with a friend, we were welcomed into a family celebration, the Nonno’s (Grandpa’s) birthday, I believe, offered cake, prosecco and compagnia (company), making for a great story.
Visit the Castello Odescalchi di Bracciano. This fairytale worthy castle was commissioned by the wealthy Napolean Orsini in 1470; construction was completed in 1485. Impressive frescos and paintings were commissioned by important artists, such as Giacomo del Duca, one of Michelangelo's students, over centuries. “In 1696 ownership of the castle passed from the Orsini to the Odescalchi” according to the official website, hence the current name. Today, you can tour the interior and exterior of the castle, and for a pretty penny, you can also celebrate a private event. Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes famously chose the Castello Odescalchi for their wedding venue in 2006.
Swim in the clear waters of the lake. Just a kilometer or so along the shoreline from Ristorante Alfredo da Persichella, you will find one of the most popular swimming spots on Bracciano, the Spiaggia di Lungolago Argenti. The water of this volcanic lake appears clean, but it is, indeed, quite clean and unpolluted as no motorboats are allowed (except police boats). You can also rent a paddleboat and explore for a reasonable price of about 10 euros an hour.
The town of Trevignano
Morning lake view from the dock of La Vela
Eat at La Vela Caffè e Ristorante in Trevignano. If it is a nice day, you should eat outside on the dock that extends into the lake. The view is gorgeous. All the food here is homemade with fresh ingredients and with care. My friends and I could not stop talking about how delicious the food was. By appearance this establishment looks like a rather average Italian bar, but we were pleasantly surprised by a healthy, homemade selection of lunch options. This is a nice spot for breakfast as well, as we have tried both breakfast and lunch here. On a crisp morning the lake water is particularly calm and there is a magical mist hanging in the air, a perfect atmosphere to sip a warm cappuccino and take a break from city life.
Stroll along the lakefront in Trevignano as well. Take the manicured promenade, lined with trees, up to the old town square, which dates back to the medieval period. There are pretty streets to wander around and you might be surprised by a market in the piazza. Visit the 16th church of Santa Maria Assunta, if you happen to be there on a weekend.
Lake view, headed into town with Santa Maria Assunta visible in the background
Aperitivo at Gens Trebonia. We visited on a winter evening (not the conventional time to visit the lake per se) but felt super cozy inside with the ample selection of birre artiginali (craft beers) inches away. The staff prepared a beautiful aperitivo selection of charcuterie with fresh cured meats, cheeses honey and fresh confit to accompany. In warmer weather, enjoy all of this on the perfect terrace at sunset, pictured on their Facebook page.