Restaurants in Napoli (with a bonus bar)
I am recommending three ‘restaurants’ in the city of Naples and one bonus bar. The first two ‘restaurants’ are actually pizzerie, and they are some of the most famous ones in the city. Still, the pizza at both of them is classic and consistently delicious, and I have a thing for eating at an original location of a place I love. As I mentioned in my Food and Wine post for Lazio, both of these pizzerie now have locations in Rome, but there is nothing like the prototype.
Da Michele
Address- Via Cesare Sersale, 1
Phone- +39 081 553 9204
Website- http://www.damichele.net/
Hours- Open 11 AM to 10.30 PM every day except closed on Sunday
Price- Low range
Reservations- Nope! Just wait in line to order; wait times can vary, so if you want to ensure you will not wait too long, go earlier around 11 or 11.30 or later as they stay open between traditional lunch and dinner times as well.
Enjoying pizza from Da Michele
Da Michele is an institution from 1870, and it is an experience I recommend having on at least one trip to Napoli. Julia Roberts visits in the film Eat, Pray and Love, and this, of course, bolstered the English speaking crowds. Still, the operation is simple and the choices are simple: pizza margherita (with tomato, mozzarella and basil) or marinara (only tomato sauce; very simple but also delicious). There are a few tables inside, but the last time we visited, I was the sacrificial lamb and fought my way to the front (there is a ticket system, but you still need to be assertive), ordered our pizze, and then we took them and found a perfect spot a few blocks away, popped a few small bottles of prosecco and indulged. Da Michele has also been recognized by the Michelin guide as ‘one of the oldest and best pizzerias in Naples’, so try for yourself, and compare with the subsequent recommendation.
An ‘ode’ to the margherita pizza, written in Neopolitan dialect, hanging inside Da Michele in Naples
Recommended Dishes
Go with the pizza margherita, unless there is a reason you can’t or don’t want to eat cheese.
Gino Sorbillo
Address- Via dei Tribunali, 32
Phone- +39 081 446643
Website-https://www.sorbillo.it/
Hours- Open 12-3.30 PM and 7-11.30 PM Monday through Saturday, closed on Sunday
Price- Low range
Reservations- Nope!
Whereas Da Michele is a bit off the beaten track, Gino Sorbillo is more centrally located in the city; in fact, it is in the Decumani, an area which I recommend visiting in the Introduction to the city of Napoli post. I like Sorbillo because of the focus on quality and specifically ingredienti biologici (organic). The wait can be pretty long here too as Sorbillo has certainly secured a place as one of the best in Naples. Also recommended by the Michelin guide, Lonely Planet and countless food blogs, it is hardly ‘undiscovered’, but it is so good. Like Da Michele, they have opened a location in Rome (New York, Miami, and Tokyo to name a few…); however, the quality of this original location is not at risk of waning. I cannot say the same for Sorbillo in Tokyo, but if you have the opportunity to go, let me know how it measures up!
Recommended Dishes
I would also start with a classic pizza margherita here
Try both Da Michele and Gino Sorbillo and compare!
Trattoria San Fernando
Address- Via Nardones, 117
Phone- +39 081 421964
Website- http://www.trattoriasanferdinando.com/
Hours- Open on Monday and Saturday for lunch, lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday, and closed on Sunday
Price- Middle range
Reservations- By phone or the website
Once you are ready for a pizza break, Trattoria San Fernando is here for you. It is a cozy space, a family run restaurant, but located very close to the Piazza del Plebiscito. You will be able to try some more of the regional classics beyond pizza here. The seafood, especially, was very good.
Recommended Dishes
Antipasto- Mozzarella di bufala alla caprese
The Campania region is also famous for the fresh and local mozzarella di bufala
Primo- Paccheri alla pescatora (A seafood pasta with the short, flat paccheri noodles)
Check out more of the menu here.
Bonus - Sfogliatelle Attanasio
Sfogliatelle at Attansio
This treasure is very near the central train station, just down a side street. As evident in the name, this traditional bakery is famous for the sfogliatelle which is a flaky pastry filled with creamy ricotta. They are turned out fresh and warm here. The shape of sfogliatelle has been compared to a ‘lobster tail’ or a ‘seashell’ but the Italian word refers to the ‘thin layers’ or even ‘leaves’ in direct translation. Make a stop here for a Neopolitan breakfast or afternoon snack as they are open from 6.30 AM to 7.30 PM every day except Monday.
‘Hot Sfogliate’ a siren call